Samaria Gorge is the longest in Europe; it is located in a remote mountain range on the island of Crete in the Mediterranean. I first heard of Samaria
from a hotel manager in
Chania who grew up in the village of
Loutro, on the magnificent south coast of Crete, a short distance from the gorge. In 1972 most of the resorts and commerce on
crete was confined to the north coast. I desperately wanted to get off the beaten path, so when I heard no road and electricity I decided to go. Instantly I packed my essentials but left most of my luggage with my new friend and departed by bus to the
trailhead. The bus left me off south of the town of
Omolos near the top of a mountain. The trail descended steeply
thru a magnificent lush forest all morning. As I descended off came the jacket then the sweater and out came the water bottle as the temperature rose. After a couple of hours the trail led into a canyon with a trickle of water running down the side. As the afternoon went on and the trail flattened out I came to a clearing maybe 100 feet wide with a rustic hut in the middle. I timidly approached and knocked at the door. Receiving no answer I let my curiosity get the better of me and I entered. It was dark but I could see signs of habitation including some food a bed and a shotgun. I assumed the hut belonged to a hunter and since it was now twilight, I decided to take advantage of the situation and
didn’t think he would mind if I spent the night. I ate most of the ham and cheese, bread and wine I had bought, then laid down on the hard mattress and read by candlelight before dosing off. The next morning with rain falling and the river rising I knew I was in trouble. I was warned that the river could quickly become a raging torrent
filling the gorge with water and drowning everything in it. Should I turn back? I hesitated before heading into the narrowest part. Before long I was wading knee deep between rock walls rising a thousand feet, only a few yards apart, and the ocean was nowhere in sight All of a sudden 2 hikers appeared from the opposite direction. Just as quickly my spirits rose, realizing that the way must be clear to the coast. Sure enough within an hour I reached the tiny settlement of
Agia Roumeli and inhaled the salt air of the Mediterranean. The rain had tapered to a drizzle but I still had 2 concerns, first I had very little food left and second how far was
Loutro. The whole settlement consisted of 1 family who were less than friendly and
didn’t understand a word of English, but they did manage to explain that no food was available, and then set me on the path with the understanding that
Loutro was about 4 hours away. Frustrated I set of in mid afternoon following a narrow footpath climbing gently along the coast to the west. All I had to do was keep the ocean on my right and eventually I would reach my destination. An hour or so later my spirits rose again as I noticed the beauty that surrounded me, the rocky cliffs, studded with wild flowers and fragrant herbs were washed by
lapis colored waves from North Africa. Then suddenly out of nowhere a man appeared and passed me without saying a word, he moved swiftly, I struggled to keep up but soon lost sight of him. Soon my mood changed again as the pitch increased the footpath disappeared and I found myself up a creek without a paddle. I found myself advancing on all fours following pellets of goat dung. With daylight fading I continued for lack of a better plan. Finally accepting that I was totally lost and alone and in fear of plunging into the sea below my mind and body began to shut down. I dreamed of a cave, which could protect me from the elements, and viola, there it was. Really no more than a flat hollow with a protective ledge above,
I made my bed and now would have to sleep in it. I sought out the last morsels of bread and cheese as the wind started to howl and it started to rain, I awoke dreaming of room service (eggs pancakes and coffee) but opened my eyes to find I had nothing to eat or drink but the rain and wind had stopped and the sun was shining. As I gathered my thoughts I heard a tinkle I listened hard and heard it again, I rolled out of my shelter and found myself surrounded by a pack of goats then as if by magic I saw a robust man walking toward me. The hat, boots, moustache and staff the exact image of a Shepard, but to me it was a miracle, He appeared like an angel in my time of need. Contrary to my reception at
Roumeli he greeted me with a smile, as if we had an appointment, not at all surprised to see me.
Kaleemera we say in unison then he brings his hand to his mouth and lifts his head slightly in a universal gesture, he produces a wet goat skin bladder and takes a drink without touching his lips, then hands it to me and begins to open a neatly wrapped fabric tied to his staff and produces a loaf of course bread a hunk of cheese and some sausage. This simple breakfast does wonders to recharge my body and spirit. With gestures and a few common names we bond in brotherhood. I tell him I am going to
Loutro and he nods and holds up 2 fingers, is it 2 hours 2 days or 2 kilometers, who cares,
Im not going back. Then he leads me up to a better trail and we depart, realizing that chance brought our worlds together for a brief moment and now it was over. Dripping in sentiment I continue, when he is gone I think of Hansel and Gretel and marking the trail with bread crumbs this time. The new trail is flat and well worn and I make good progress for the next couple of hours, hardly noticing the ruins of chapels, monasteries and numerous military artifacts. I am still hundreds of feet above the Mediterranean, at times it is all I can see because the view is blocked by protruding ridges, then I summit a ridge and dramatically the view opens and there it is half a dozen white washed houses tucked between a rocky hill and a sandy beach in a protected horseshoe cove. I take a deep breath and let it sink in there is no hurry although It is a significant milestone I feel relief above all, no more questions, doubts or fear. I am perched on a point protruding into the sea and it looks like another half hour down to the village.
I m determined to soak in as much as possible, ignoring nothing, imagining every stone to be part of something
manmade and indeed there are many ruins that would have passed unnoticed in my desperate state just 24 hours ago. I spend four nights in
Loutro, I sleep in 4 different houses, I eat and drink with nearly everyone in the village. They are used to guests and are happy to receive them as I learned from other travelers passing
thru. Although they do charge a small fee for hospitality I
wouldn’t have it any other way. Unfortunately this has all changed as word spread. Today
Loutro is crowded with tourists, the lights are on and homes have become hotels and restaurants, there are still no roads but a boat stops there several times a day turning the once remote rustic village into a chic crowded beach resort. Samaria now has a ten dollar entrance fee and the new town of
Roumeli is mobbed with day trippers and has carnival atmosphere like a grotesque caricature of all that is Greek.
from a hotel manager in Chania who grew up in the village of Loutro, on the magnificent south coast of Crete, a short distance from the gorge. In 1972 most of the resorts and commerce on crete was confined to the north coast. I desperately wanted to get off the beaten path, so when I heard no road and electricity I decided to go. Instantly I packed my essentials but left most of my luggage with my new friend and departed by bus to the trailhead. The bus left me off south of the town of Omolos near the top of a mountain. The trail descended steeply thru a magnificent lush forest all morning. As I descended off came the jacket then the sweater and out came the water bottle as the temperature rose. After a couple of hours the trail led into a canyon with a trickle of water running down the side. As the afternoon went on and the trail flattened out I came to a clearing maybe 100 feet wide with a rustic hut in the middle. I timidly approached and knocked at the door. Receiving no answer I let my curiosity get the better of me and I entered. It was dark but I could see signs of habitation including some food a bed and a shotgun. I assumed the hut belonged to a hunter and since it was now twilight, I decided to take advantage of the situation and didn’t think he would mind if I spent the night. I ate most of the ham and cheese, bread and wine I had bought, then laid down on the hard mattress and read by candlelight before dosing off. The next morning with rain falling and the river rising I knew I was in trouble. I was warned that the river could quickly become a raging torrent
filling the gorge with water and drowning everything in it. Should I turn back? I hesitated before heading into the narrowest part. Before long I was wading knee deep between rock walls rising a thousand feet, only a few yards apart, and the ocean was nowhere in sight All of a sudden 2 hikers appeared from the opposite direction. Just as quickly my spirits rose, realizing that the way must be clear to the coast. Sure enough within an hour I reached the tiny settlement of Agia Roumeli and inhaled the salt air of the Mediterranean. The rain had tapered to a drizzle but I still had 2 concerns, first I had very little food left and second how far was Loutro. The whole settlement consisted of 1 family who were less than friendly and didn’t understand a word of English, but they did manage to explain that no food was available, and then set me on the path with the understanding that Loutro was about 4 hours away. Frustrated I set of in mid afternoon following a narrow footpath climbing gently along the coast to the west. All I had to do was keep the ocean on my right and eventually I would reach my destination. An hour or so later my spirits rose again as I noticed the beauty that surrounded me, the rocky cliffs, studded with wild flowers and fragrant herbs were washed by lapis colored waves from North Africa. Then suddenly out of nowhere a man appeared and passed me without saying a word, he moved swiftly, I struggled to keep up but soon lost sight of him. Soon my mood changed again as the pitch increased the footpath disappeared and I found myself up a creek without a paddle. I found myself advancing on all fours following pellets of goat dung. With daylight fading I continued for lack of a better plan. Finally accepting that I was totally lost and alone and in fear of plunging into the sea below my mind and body began to shut down. I dreamed of a cave, which could protect me from the elements, and viola, there it was. Really no more than a flat hollow with a protective ledge above, 
I made my bed and now would have to sleep in it. I sought out the last morsels of bread and cheese as the wind started to howl and it started to rain, I awoke dreaming of room service (eggs pancakes and coffee) but opened my eyes to find I had nothing to eat or drink but the rain and wind had stopped and the sun was shining. As I gathered my thoughts I heard a tinkle I listened hard and heard it again, I rolled out of my shelter and found myself surrounded by a pack of goats then as if by magic I saw a robust man walking toward me. The hat, boots, moustache and staff the exact image of a Shepard, but to me it was a miracle, He appeared like an angel in my time of need. Contrary to my reception at Roumeli he greeted me with a smile, as if we had an appointment, not at all surprised to see me. Kaleemera we say in unison then he brings his hand to his mouth and lifts his head slightly in a universal gesture, he produces a wet goat skin bladder and takes a drink without touching his lips, then hands it to me and begins to open a neatly wrapped fabric tied to his staff and produces a loaf of course bread a hunk of cheese and some sausage. This simple breakfast does wonders to recharge my body and spirit. With gestures and a few common names we bond in brotherhood. I tell him I am going to Loutro and he nods and holds up 2 fingers, is it 2 hours 2 days or 2 kilometers, who cares, Im not going back. Then he leads me up to a better trail and we depart, realizing that chance brought our worlds together for a brief moment and now it was over. Dripping in sentiment I continue, when he is gone I think of Hansel and Gretel and marking the trail with bread crumbs this time. The new trail is flat and well worn and I make good progress for the next couple of hours, hardly noticing the ruins of chapels, monasteries and numerous military artifacts. I am still hundreds of feet above the Mediterranean, at times it is all I can see because the view is blocked by protruding ridges, then I summit a ridge and dramatically the view opens and there it is half a dozen white washed houses tucked between a rocky hill and a sandy beach in a protected horseshoe cove. I take a deep breath and let it sink in there is no hurry although It is a significant milestone I feel relief above all, no more questions, doubts or fear. I am perched on a point protruding into the sea and it looks like another half hour down to the village. 
I m determined to soak in as much as possible, ignoring nothing, imagining every stone to be part of something manmade and indeed there are many ruins that would have passed unnoticed in my desperate state just 24 hours ago. I spend four nights in Loutro, I sleep in 4 different houses, I eat and drink with nearly everyone in the village. They are used to guests and are happy to receive them as I learned from other travelers passing thru. Although they do charge a small fee for hospitality I wouldn’t have it any other way. Unfortunately this has all changed as word spread. Today Loutro is crowded with tourists, the lights are on and homes have become hotels and restaurants, there are still no roads but a boat stops there several times a day turning the once remote rustic village into a chic crowded beach resort. Samaria now has a ten dollar entrance fee and the new town of Roumeli is mobbed with day trippers and has carnival atmosphere like a grotesque caricature of all that is Greek.
I enjoyed your account of the walk. I did the walk in April of 1974 with a group of about 4 people I had met in Chania.
ReplyDeleteOurs was not such an eventful trip but like you I was overjoyed to find Loutro. Agia Roumelia was just as unfriendly when I visited was Loutro was friendly - I spent over two months there!